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Friday, March 4, 2022

Growing a Garden on The Cheap

 I like to watch Youtube or Rumble videos.  They vary from political, news, homesteading, gardening, and doll repair.  Okay, Okay, sometimes I'll watch animal videos.  They're cute!  

Anyway, homestead and gardening videos are my favorites.  I'd say I've learned a lot from them; sometimes learning what NOT to do.  FYI, just because there's a video showing something, doesn't mean it's the right thing TO do.  I've learned over the years to only try something on one of those videos if the "Youtuber" is reputable, and/or I won't be out anything by trying.  

Many times I'll start out watching someone pretty consistently.  Don't get me wrong; I understand the concept of constantly needing to add content to a channel, but there comes a time when what is being shared is something I can't afford to use or do.  For instance, there's a difference between a Youtuber Green house purchased/or provided to them by their sponsor, and my sad little homemade cattle panel green house.  At least when it comes to aesthetics.    The concept of how both work remains the same.  We've managed quite well here on our little homestead without Premiere Fencing, Name brand seed starter pots, or a Harvest Right Freeze drier to name a few.  In fact once they're pulling these things out for content, they lose me.  I need to save money, and I don't have sponsors to fund my foray into gardening.  Most don't.

I share the previous to say that anyone can grow at least some of their own food, and do so without all the Bells and Whistles that sponsor Youtube personalities.  In fact, let's not even compare to YouTube personalities.  Anyone can grow at least some of their own food without a large outlay of funds.  Pennies I tell you!  Pennies.  Well in today's economy it's more like...uh...dimes!  Dimes I tell you!  That's what this post is for.  All of the following things are things I do here in my shabby chic garden.  I won't give you any tip I don't currently use.  Promise!

Here are some tips to get started!

1)  Start with seeds.  Even if you've never gardened before, starting seeds inside can help you get the hang of it.  In addition, even factoring in potting mix, seeds are way cheaper than buying plants.  If you know someone that gardens, bet you can ask them for a few seeds and they will be happy to oblige.  We gardeners are always wanting to get people on the garden wagon. 


Some seeds do better being started outdoors.  Those are usually things like Corn and Beans.  Squashes can be temperamental too.  With all three it's because they don't like their roots messed with.  With experience and care, this can be overcome.  As a general rule though, I would start Corn, Beans, and squashes outside.  Tomato seeds are the easiest to start indoors.  They germinate quickly, and tolerate being moved fairly well.  One little packet of tomatoes seeds can contain 100 seeds!  Each seed represents a plant!  For new gardeners, maybe start with just a few tomatoes seeds and see how that goes.  Be forewarned though, my journey started with 4 tomato plants!  Look where that got me!

Important tips when planting seeds

a)  Plant at the depth stated on the package.

b)  Once planted, water well, and place on the top of a fridge or freezer to keep the bottom of the seed pots warm.

c)  Keep the tops well watered each day.  That doesn't mean a deep water.  The seed is only sitting near the top.  Mist the top well daily til the seeds emerge and start to grow.  Once they emerge, put them in a sunny location.  Even if it's only a few that emerge, move them.  The rest will follow soon.

d)  Once seedlings emerge, they will have two leaves.  When they have four leaves( those last two are "true leaves"), begin to put them outside in nice weather.  Do about an hour first day out of direct sunlight.  Add time each day as well as sunlight.  After about a week of in and out, let them stay outside over night as long as there's no frost.  If they do well over night, then they're ready to plant outside as long as there is no risk of frost.  Cold weather plants are fine either way.  *** extra little tip, have a small fan on low gently blowing across the plants to strengthen them.  Just not too much.  If you don't have a fan, periodically just run your hand lightly across the tops of the plants to simulate w breeze moving the plant.

2) Planting Containers-  Contrary to advertisers and Youtube personalities; There's no need for the latest and greatest seed pots to start a garden.  All that's needed is something with drainage, and that will hold dirt.  Sour cream, and yogurt containers containers make great seed pots, and they're free! Just need to put drainage holes in the bottom.  Plus if the lids for these containers are clear they'll make great little mini greenhouse domes for seed starting.  I save mine during the year.  When they're empty, I run them thru the dishwasher and then store til needed. Any type of plastic container like those will work.  Friends and family can save theirs if needed.  What doesn't work I've found, is egg cartons, and empty toilet paper/paper towel rolls.  The egg cartons are too small to allow the plant to grow, and toilet paper rolls disintegrate before the plant reaches the ability to be planted outside.  


3)  Potting mix-  Now this is where you will have to spend a little.  You don't need a large bag of mix, maybe 4 qt bag?  As tempting as it is to go out in my yard and just grab dirt for my plants, I have to refrain.  Yard dirt's all fine and good if the plants are staying outside, but since I'll be having them start indoors, regular yard dirt will never do.  That dirt isn't sterile, in that it has little buggies and stuff.  Nope!  Better to just grab a small bag to start your seeds.

4)  Fertilizer - Is fertilizer necessary?  Well, if you're going to keep your plants in a pot on the porch, maybe not so much first year out.  In all honesty, if a yard garden is in the works, The County Extension office will perform a soil test free of charge.  Well it used to be free.  Cant speak for certain now.  The soil may come back that it's perfect, at which point fertilizer won't be needed.  If some type of fertilizer is needed, look into acquiring natural fertilizers; aged chicken manure, cow manure, or horse manure.   Rabbit manure doesn't have to age.  Don't want to deal with animal poo?  Coffee grounds, tea bags, egg shells, banana peels, etc work fairly well.  The coffee and tea will work faster since it doesn't have to break down.  You can, if you're only doing a small area, use fish emulsion.  Stinks to high heaven, but it doesn't cost much, don't have to use much, and works well.  I'm kinda a fence straddler when it comes to synthetic fertilizer.  To me the worst thing to use on your plants is pesticide.  I see fertilizer as a supplement such as a vitamin supplement  we would take.  It's better to get it from natural sources, but in a pinch if you need it and don't have natural sources, go for it.  BUT  keep amending your soil with what natural sources  you can until it's built up to not need fertilizer.

Uh sorry, no pictures of animal poo.  I know your sad.  My condolences.

5)  Weed Suppression-  May I preface this by saying DON'T BUY LANDSCAPE FABRIC!  I've learned this lesson the hard way.  I've had it twice.  I bought it the second time because I thought I just didn't get a good quality landscape fabric.  Yea.  I was wrong.  Quality has  nothing to do with it.  Landscape fabric or weed suppression fabric is a permeable fabric that's supposed to keep weeds down, but allow water in.  There are problems with this theory I'm finding:  

a)  Fabric in combination with rain pouring down from above( and sitting in puddles on top of fabric)on top of red clay soil like I have here in Ga; makes for hard compacted dirt.  Plants don't like that.  Plus, there's no way to cultivate the dirt around the plants periodically because the fabric is in the way.  

b)  While it does suppress some weeds, others make it thru the tiny holes and grow.  By the time you see them, they're hard to pull out of the fabric and leave holes once you do; ruining the fabric.  

A better alternative, and one that is relatively free: Wood chips acquired from the landfill on top of cardboard collected.  I've done this over the past few years.  I collect any boxes that come from orders delivered to the house, groceries, my sons weekly "pizza before day off" routine, etc.  As these come in, I break them down flat and lay them in walk ways between my beds.  These I top with fresh wood chips from the landfill.  Wood chips from the landfill are free.  You just have to go get them.  At least here they are.  I think they are everywhere. 


***I do not put fresh wood chips around my actual plants.  Wood chips need to age or they will steal nitrogen from the vegetable plants.  Do not mix your wood chips into the dirt.  

I rarely put boxes on my actual beds, but I do during the winter time when nothing is growing.  Boxes are organic material and will break down to become part of the soil.  Yes that means they have to be replaced periodically, but so does the landscape fabric.  At least these add to the soil and are free.  

While I put the cardboard and wood chips in the walk ways, the actual beds (or rows if you don't have beds) are topped with leaves (free for me) or pine straw if I have the funds.  I leave my beds free from cardboard during the growing season in order to cultivate.

Many cities or counties have a place to pick up Wood chips or Free Mulch. It's pick up only.  If unable to pick up from the landfill, Area Tree service companies will drop chipped wood from taken down trees to addresses on file to receive.  They will only do this for those in the area they're working. 

*** I'm adding this.  I just discovered Chip Drop.  You sign up for free, you can request woodchips, logs, or both.  A truck will deliver your request when your name comes up in the area they are working.  You have to take the whole truck load.  If you want logs they will be big.   It's free woodchips, but you can get them faster by either paying the arborist fee of $20 (still cheap for a whole truck load of mulch), or accepting both woodchips and logs.  I've put in a request for woodchips only, but we are opting to pay the arborist fee.  

6)  Garden Structure-  I do not buy tomato cages or garden stakes in the garden area of stores.  Those do not have the strength or height to support my plants.  I go over to the masonry section and get the bundles of long stakes (6 ft) for erosion control.  These are made of wood.  They are waaaaaay cheaper. Coat them in boiled linseed oil and they're good to go.  I've used them without the linseed oil and they do fine for a season, but a single coat gives them a good long life.  Our former absent neighbor had a fence that encroached on our property.  He gave us permission to remove any of the fence that was on our property.  That was all of the fence from the corner of our drive way, back to our property line.  We couldn't move the chain link, but the field fence was removed by yours truly.  I'm not throwing that away.  It's been used to provide arches, cages, etc. for the garden.  I have a PVC Trellis my dad made years ago for their garden.  My garden beds are made with cinder blocks scavenged from my good neighbor as well as a demolished house on the property of a friend of ours.  My point is to think outside the box and see things with a new eye.  Ahhh the possibilities!  

Gardens don't have to be designer deals that produce very expensive produce.  We need ours to be as inexpensive as possible.  

Don't let expense put off beginning a garden.  It can be done.  

Please comment below and share tips and tricks!  I love to learn new things!  

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